Pisa: More than just a Tower

After just two full days in Florence, we had ticked off most of the key sights, so we decided that we should take a day trip to another Tuscan town. Having weighed up the pros and cons of different regional hotspots, we decided to buy train tickets to perhaps the most famous of all: Pisa. Part of the reason for this was the shorter and cheaper journey, but we were equally motivated by the weather - Florence was forecast to reach a crazy 35 degrees, and Pisa was predicted to be 5 degrees cooler. After our constant war with the heat, this felt like a shot at victory.

Following a frustrating 20-minute delay, our train eventually rolled into the station and we climbed aboard. This train had two floors, and we headed straight to the top seats in search of the best views. It didn't disappoint. With this extra height, we could see over the tops of the hedges that bordered the railway line, and we had a perfect view of the surrounding countryside. It really was lovely, with lots of rolling hills, glittering lakes, and well-kept farmland. Interestingly, though, we saw very few scenes of such beauty as is reflected in Hollywood movies and Tuscany travel brochures, and I don't think that this landscape can trump the acres of vineyards and sunflowers in Southern France. 

When we arrived at Pisa's central station, I had fairly low expectations. When I had researched where to visit, Pisa had often been shunned by reviewers, with many scorning the multitudes of tourists and lack of charm. The Pisa we stepped into was a completely different city. Our first destination was obviously intended to be the tower, but despite it being a short walk away, we spent a long time getting there as I was distracted by almost every street. Here, there were rows of houses that (in my opinion) are much prettier than those in Florence. Whereas the streets around Il Duomo have largely been renovated and repainted, making them seem much more modern, those in Pisa have clung onto their heritage with fervor. The roofs are at different levels, each house is painted a different colour, and peeling shutters frame every window. Moreover, the shops here seem more authentic, with cheap slices of pizza and misshapen vegetables being displayed in the windows. I tugged Max into churches, markets, and antique stores before we got our first glimpse of the leaning tower. 

The Market

The Streets

When we entered the square of the tower itself, I was immediately struck by its beauty. What travel websites fail to mention is that the tower shares the space with a gorgeous cathedral and baptistery, and the three monuments of intricate white stone are a powerful spectacle. Whilst there were many tourists, it was definitely less busy than usual, so we also benefitted from undisrupted views. The tower itself, despite disappointing some with its shortness, is in my view a real spectacle. When sat beside two perfectly regular buildings, its haphazard angle looks even more amusing.  

The Tower

The Central Square

 

Having satisfied our need to take photos in true tourist style, we discovered we could enter the Cathedral for free. I'm glad we worked this out because the inside is really wonderful. It is incredibly ornate, with marble columns, gold-paneled ceilings, and frescoed domes providing a feast for the eyes. 

Outside the Cathedral

Inside the Cathedral

After snapping a few last shots of the tower, we made a start on Pisa's other sights, and we took a walk down the River Arno. The wide river which flows through Tuscany from Florence to Pisa gives a great view of the pretty streets. It is also scattered with oddities, such as a tiny but incredibly ornate marble chapel. Having wolfed down massive (and cheap) slices of pizza, we sheltered from the sun for a while in a park, and then lapped Pisa's outer streets. It is clearly a very artistic city, with street art adorning many of its walls, including one piece by the famous artist Keith Haring.

Street Art

The River

At 4pm, we caught a return train to Florence, arriving back in the city at 5:20. The heat was still so intense that on our walk home we passed someone who had collapsed in the street. Not only had Pisa provided a great day out, but it had protected us from this crazy heat!